Spain (Tenerife): "We are running out of potato seeds"

It’s summer, but northern Tenerife seems oblivious. The municipalities of the valley have remained under the thick gray blanket of the "donkey’s belly" cloud cover for almost the entire year. Today is no exception, as a cloud has settled over Tigaiga mountain, enveloping Los Realejos in an atmosphere more autumnal than summery. Although it’s not raining today, those who have visited this municipality in recent months know it’s because the sky has simply grown tired of it. Spring rainfall has been intense and frequent. In one of the most emblematic areas for  growing the Bonita potato , water has been the enemy of farmers who were hoping to reap their harvest in January. 

While rain is said to be good for potatoes, it’s not so good for the small, pink, heirloom varieties. For the second year in a row, the harvest of these delicious tubers has been almost completely destroyed by intense, unseasonal rains, which are becoming increasingly frequent due to climate change. This is especially worrying in Icod del Alto, home to unique varieties like Ojo de Perdiz and Azucena Negra.

The 12th Annual Bonita Potato Gastronomic Fair, taking place today in San Agustín Square in Los Realejos, is trying to avoid a disastrous situation. The event, enlivened by a cooking competition and a wine tasting, highlights not only the rich flavor and properties of the 13 varieties of Bonita potato cultivated since 1622, but also their cultural significance in the Canary Islands.

Large, small, and wrinkled potatoes are displayed in jars, catching the eye of passersby on Alhóndiga Street, enjoying coffee or breakfast. This exhibition is organized by the La Papa Bonita Growers Association, dedicated to rescuing and promoting this crop despite climate change.

Anatolio Luis, president of the association, describes the situation with resignation: "The harvest has been very bad; it’s rained a lot, and many potatoes have rotted," he explains. The problem goes beyond the few potatoes harvested; after two years of limited production, "there are almost no seeds." This year, Luis admits he will have to buy them.

“We normally distribute seeds; last year we gave them to some farmers to grow,” Luis explains. This year there aren’t enough, even for loyal customers who look to the market for their usual supplier. “I wanted to make a reservation for next year, don’t you have any?” a friend asks. Luis, jokingly, replies that he has to buy some himself. The situation is almost critical.

The threat to the heirloom potato is serious. Its loss would mean the end of more than four centuries of tradition. The first potatoes were planted in the Canary Islands in Icod del Alto, Los Realejos, in 1622.

Originating from Peru

Originally from Peru, and for some reason, they managed to thrive in the islands. For Luis, the key lay in the fog. They adapted well to Icod del Alto, since the climate is similar to that of Peru, with its constant fog, says Luis, who recalls that the Bonita potatoes are dryland varieties, but appreciate some humidity.

The ancient potatoes arrived in the Canary Islands long before the Chinegua or Autodate varieties. Until then, chestnuts were consumed, and with their flavor, potatoes managed to replace them in almost every dish, explains Luis. In fact, the relationship between nuts and this tuber is still present today in many varieties, whose flavor evokes the buttery, sweet, and earthy taste of the potato’s culinary forerunners.

The most challenging aspect of keeping this tradition alive is the labor involved. "We plant the potatoes in January and can’t harvest until June," explains the farmer, who criticizes the fast-paced lifestyle that has taken hold in society. "People want everything quickly, and this is a potato that requires patience; cooking a stew slowly always results in a tastier dish." However, the complexity of  cultivating this heirloom potato doesn’t end there.

Six months of hard work

During those six months, the effort isn’t so much focused on irrigation—which is rarely part of these farmers’ plans—but on ensuring the potatoes are always properly covered, and doing so manually. There comes a point when the vines grow so long that they need to be covered with soil again, but you can’t do it with a tractor because you have to bend the vines and add soil from one side to prevent them from turning green.

All this knowledge, acquired over decades by the most experienced farmers, is slowly being lost. They had studied everything, from the lunar calendar to cultivation techniques, says the association’s president, adding that gatherings like this also serve to share new, more effective farming strategies. With climate change, the rain and heat are extreme, Luis comments, pointing to the abrupt climate shifts as the factor affecting crop  viability .